Subway Travels

‎Since I was essentially without wheels for the duration of my recent Beijing stay (a minimum 90 day visit is required now to obtain a provisional  driver's license; as opposed to the 30 days-only granted during my '08 Olympics visit), I spent a lot of time either on rubber heels or underground on Beijing's Subway system.

Despite the cramped conditions, the Subways are clean, safe, and staffed by a smiling and cordial Corp of‎ uniformed officers.

Bright Lights, Big City

Now I don't want to give anyone the impression that the retail/merchant economic environment in Beijing only operates at sidewalk‎ level; far from it! Beijing is the Capital City of the People's Republic of China; home to some 22 million inhabitants; and is without question both the cultural/political engine and catalyst of Asia.

While my examination of neighboring business establishments‎ could be characterized as a micro-perspective of businesses here, it's now time to put a macro focus on what drives the City and Country's consumer economy:

The Chinese are spending money; in a big way; and while they are *Chinese* -- "Orientals" if you will; my biggest takeaway after several years of coming to the PRC: they want to be "Occidentals"; *Westerners"; and perish the thought -- Americans!

(But don't we all?)

Now don't get your flamethrowers out yet; my own casual and unscientific analysis points directly to that conclusion...

Don't forget, this is a country that for some 30 years was all but closed to Western visitors; which maintained strict uniformity in daily attire; which even discouraged the use of western terms such as "Blue Jeans" in their media; lest the Nation's language become corrupted...

Since opening-up, China has steadily adopted western culture; claiming it as if it were their own.

With that, I will look at 3 distinct and representative major retail centers in Beijing; the first, the Mother of all things retail -- East *and* West -- Wanfujing.

Situated a short distance from Tiananmen Square, Beijing's governmental hub; Wanfujing is a broad boulevard of retail Malls and smaller shops; all beneficiaries of an almost auto‎mobile-free environment; where shoppers can meander across its expanse; stop for photo-opportunities; or just rest their feet.

Wanfujing is a unique blend of merchants; melding the older traditional type of Chinese products with both the trendy Western retailers and ‎iconic brands.

I am typically a third-wheel at this stage of the game, grudgingly dragged-along on some shopping quest not of my own ‎initiative; I've been here; I've done here; and besides, it feels just like everywhere else...

Street Life

The story of my Monday afternoon stroll down Yinghuayuan and Hepingli did in fact have a happy ending...!!!

I ultimately was able to locate the sought-after Lightning to USB charging cable that was the original impetus for my journey. After an initial visit to one of the many telecom resellers who jostle what seems every fourth retail space -- pushing mobile phone equipment and competing carriers like so many dumpling shops -- everything becoming commoditized; I scored what I believed would prove the best possible deal...

With prices ranging as high as189‎ Yuan for the exact connections required, ultimately my second of many shop stops was my purchase decision; and at 20 Yuan, which, with the current U.S. Dollar to Chinese Yuan conversion going at a ratio of 1 U.S. to 6.2 China, well you do the math...

But in the end, just before I turned off the bustling boule‎vard of my afternoon to evening odyssey, I came upon a street vendor, one of many I would encounter that day, hawking his own array of after-market tech wares; and much to my amusement, he was actually able to offer the same knock-off unlicensed hardware for 5 YUAN less than my own purchase; but probably a wiser choice was made in the end, as the store I got my goods from had an address -- I knew where they lived -- and this guy was on some kind of 3-wheeled motorized Radio Shack; the better to never be seen of again, should *his* goods fail to perform.

Just one of ‎the many unique and diverse array of proprietors encountered that day -- from Moslem food sellers selling Hallal organ meats (he wouldn't let me snap them); to mobile pet shops; and even outdoor kitchens; ideal for morning *and* evening pedestrian commuters -- all participating in an economy that is as wide open and sprawling as the spectrum of ethnicities and traditions which make up this nation.

Hands-on Experience

On the very same street I was walking down Monday afternoon, I saw the sign which I'd seen so many times before...

Walking; biking; breezing by, in the back of an automobile...

But I never stopped to inquire.

Then, while in Hong Kong, I saw an article on the recent Asian Film Awards‎; essentially the region's Oscars -- my curiosity was piqued...

And no, I haven't seen the film.

And Now, A Word From Our Sponsor

‎Lest we forget where I am, the Chairman is everywhere...

Although the sign shown here was actually in a trendy Hong Kong entertainment, dining and retail district; you're never too far from this region's legacy; the Man looms large...

Whether in storefront windows or staring back at the front gate to the last and past Emperor's "Forbidden City", you're always reminded, ultimately, on which side the br‎ead is buttered.

Which brings me to the matter of "Social Media":

To those of you who've noticed, I have been able to intermittently post to Facebook; though service is spotty and inconsistent at best‎; this, I am certain, is no coincidence...

This Blog,however‎, appears to be functioning in a much more robust fashion; and thus far has proven virtually bulletproof; knock on bamboo.

I've gotten a pretty good handle by now what the parameters are which allow me to operate surreptitiously and avoid any major gaps in coverage; without tipping my hand, I can remain confident that reporting from the field here will continue unabated...

Daily Rhythms

‎Despite the choking smog of my Monday stroll (I learn later that it is attributable to a major sand storm originating in China's Gobi Desert), I continue; crossing a major thoroughfare; where the street I am following changes in name, though not direction; transitioning from Yinghuayuan Jie into ‎Hepingli Jie; a little confusing at first, despite my frequent visits and stays in Chaoyang District; but you know what they say, the streets here: "they all look the same!"

Meanwhile, people go about with daily routines; at this hour -- mid-afternoon -- it is mostly older retirees I see; with students and workers still engaged in their own academic and professional pursuits.

This is an hour of leisure, before the hazy Beijing sky loses its light‎; and darkness invites the mayhem of the City's Neon and Electronic signage to stimulate passers-by.

The outdoor produce stalls still have plenty to offer the Women planning the evening's meals; and the Men‎...???  Let's just say that despite the air quality, they won't be contributing any time soon to exploding those stereotypes about what Chinese do with their leisure time!

Baby You Can Drive My Car

In China, before the ""opening up" of the late 1970's, it used to be said‎ that all anyone needed in the way of "luxury" possessions were a Wristwatch; a Typewriter; and a Bicycle‎.

Later, until the '90's, the objects of one's desire became a Washing Machine‎; a motorized Scooter; and a Television.

The must-have "wants" of an increasingly prosperous Chine‎se populace of the 1990's were Personal Computers and anything related to personal fashion and vanity.

The booming Chinese economy of the new millennium saw an economic great leap forward, propelling many into an income bracket capable of such aspirational possessions as a personal Automobile and a home of one's own -- typically a Condominium property.

Immediately following the highly successful and visible 2008 Beijing Summer Olympics -- the nation's big "coming-out" party -- China, was caught in the vortex of the West's economic downturn; with much Chinese investment situated in those countries,the hit to the PRC was inevitable.

But China, like the U.S. and other countries, received their own bailout funds; and with Chinese personal wealth not as severely impacted as their counterparts in the U.S., they went on a spending spree -- purchasing property in the U.S. -- most notably in depressed housing markets; in many instances, the buyers being young couples, purchasing U.S. starter homes; to be leased-out until their own children are of college-age; attending U.S.schools and living in such properties.

And now, with measures in China enacted 2 years ago to avoid a speculative real estate bubble burst (as the U.S. experienced‎ in 2008) being relaxed, the most well-off Chinese are again buying 2nd and even 3rd homes for  investment and personal use. 

Add to that all the young 20-30 somethings‎ -- offspring of China's 1 Child Policy -- and you've got a new generation of Chinese, not so concerned with the traditional habit of frugality and saving, but rather, more concerned with the latest trend; and all that is required to feed it...

...But this little guy? All he's thinking is how much he can get on trade for his move-up from a Bicycle to 4-wheels!